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Also known as South Kensington,
crewel stitch, stalk stitch, and cord stitch.
There are three approaches
to stem stitch (and outline stitch). Before a discussion of those,
let's talk about the difference between stem and outline stitch.
They are
not the same, being either worked with the thread up or to
the right (outline stitch) or with the thread down or to the
left (stem stitch). The results are different. Outline
stitch creates a hard edge and the twist of the thread (the
plies) untwist during the working. Either stitch is worked
from left to right (right-handed stitchers) or right to left
(left-handed stitchers).
Why do you use
stem rather than outline or outline rather than stem? One
reason is the twist of the thread which needs to be taken into
consideration. Depending upon whether you choose a Z (rayon and
some silks) or S twist (cotton and some silk), as you work the
stitches, the thread will twist up tighter, or untwist. Use the
stitch which maintains the twist, rather than flattening out
the plied threads. There is such a distinct difference in the
thread twist relation to this stitch, that authorities in Brazilian
embroidery reverse the terms. That is, when the thread is up
or right they term it stem stitch. For more discussion on Z-twist,
see: Thread Terms
in Progression and Thread
Grain
It also depends
upon personal preference for the look you want; that is, the
final result. Embroidery is a creative endeavor. Choosing a stitch
means your final product has your "signature."
When using
stem stitch to outline motifs, you may have to alter
the way you are holding the work so that the stitch hugs
up to the previous stitching.
In all
of the text which follows, the term stem stitch will
be used for expediency sake. The results are the
same for either stitch.
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Whatever
method you choose in your work, try to choose the method which
best suits the type of embroidery you are executing. Fine
embroidery usually uses the corded method, but not always.
Chunkier embroideries can use the corded method for even greater
bold appeal. As well, the second method might give the project
just what you are trying to convey in its artistry. Choose
the method that enhances your work rather than choosing a stitch
because it's the only one you know how to do. This guide hopes
to teach you the three common methods for working this versatile
stitch.
There is a difference
in opinion amongst current teachers as to whether you change
direction of the thread (i.e. go from stem stitch to outline
stitch) when embroidering concave or convex curves. It
is my personal opinion that this is not necessary and spoils
the look of the line, since stem and outline do not look similar. Controlling
and adjusting the length of the stitches is key to making curves
and points neat. Experiment for yourself and use the method which
you personally feel attains the finished look you want.
Stem stitch is
used any number of ways in embroidery and was one of the first
stitches invented for embellishment. Possibly because of its
use in hand sewing. It is the backbone of embroidery and learning
it well helps you to increase skill level in other areas of embroidery.
The most common useage is for:
1. stems (as its name implies) and vines in
combination with other decorative stitches;
2. as the only stitch used in a work
(common in Redwork for example, and 16th century embroideries);
3. as an outline for stitches
such as satin stitch as well as padded work and motifs filled
with other stitches. |
